We shut-off your water, gas, or electric, and drain and disconnect your old heater
We slide it out of the way and put the new one right in the same place.
We haul-away the old water heater to be recycled for free.
If copper, we remove old copper flex connectors and solder copper male adapters, we then install stainless steel water flex connections for both the hot and cold fittings at heater.
For gas water heaters, we hook it up to the existing flue and install new gas valve and gas pipe drip leg assembly and new gas flex line.
The labor warranty for all new water heater installation is 3 years. You choose the factory Warranty for new water heater (warranties typically range from 6 to 12 years).
We check the water pressure and install a new thermal expansion tank and piping.
We hook the new water heater up to the existing water lines below the existing valve
For electric water heaters, we reconnect it to the existing electric quick disconnect box.
Some examples of a non-standard installation include: (1) when the water heater is located on the 2nd floor or above, (2) when the tank is not accessible because it is behind a furnace, (3) when gas lines are blocking it, or (4) when it is behind a finished wall or door frame.
Water Heater Pros specializes in residential and commercial water heater repair and replacement. We take care of all your water heater needs, including expansion tanks, water shut-off valves, and any other plumbing item related to the water heater.
Our Standard Installation is defined as the "standard installation of a new water heater" in place of an old one in which has a clear access (36" wide) to the old water heater.
Do you currently have enough hot water under normal conditions? Is the existing water heater sized properly?
Is the water pressure at the water heater acceptable? (Pressure over 80psi can damage your new water heater)
Is there code approved seismic bracing in the current installation? If so, is it a dual strap and secured at 4 points?
Is there adequate space for the new water heater to be installed?
Is the water heater currently installed in a code approved location?
Is the existing flue vent adequate for the new water heater?
Energy star water heaters are energy efficient and offer rebates in most areas.
Would you like to move the water heater to another area? (any remodeling plans in the future?)
Does the emergency shut-off valve for the gas line work easy or is the valve a spring loaded or non compliance.
Does the emergency water shut-off valve work? Is it located where it is accessible?
Does it take a long time for certain areas of the house to get hot water? Can some type of hot water return system be installed?
Is the water heater in a place that would require a bollard? This is a 4″ diameter steel pole placed into the concrete to protect the heater from being hit by a car.
Is the installation of a tankless heater possible? Tankless gas heaters can be an effective option and should be examined as a viable alternative.
Is there a gas flex line going into the heater? Gas flex lines must be replaced at time of new installation. Any water heater rated at 100,000 B.T.U’s or more requires a special gas flex line or hard pipe.
Electric heat pump water heaters are also known as Hybrids and have been designed to be the most energy efficient hot water heater in the industry as high as 3.70EF. current rebates as high as $3000.
Is there enough combustion air in the current location? (gas heaters need a sufficient supply of oxygen to operate safely) water heaters in a confined space must have two vents equal to 100 square inches each, for water heaters up to 100,000 BTU.
Is the heater in a location that might require or need the installation of a drip pan? This is a metal containment pan with a drain on the side that will help contain any water that might leak out from under the heater. The drain line must then be run to an approved location.
Does this installation require an 14″ high stand? Water heaters with unsealed combustion chambers (like many 75 and 100 gallon types) require a stand if they are located in the vicinity of a parked vehicle (typically a garage or near a garage). If there is a stand currently, is it code approved? Is the stand bolted to the floor?
Is the flue pipe up to code? (this is the pipe that comes out of the top center of the heater and removes the un-burnt gases, carbon monoxide, to the outside) Is it sized properly? Does it work? (we will check) An oversized flue pipe can be a problem and cause condensation that could possibly shorten the life of your heater. Asbestos vents must be removed.
Does the temperature and pressure relief valve terminate in a code approved location? This is a safety valve that all heaters have that will open if the temperature and/or pressure becomes excessive. If this occurs that scalding hot water must go someplace.